I Wanna Be a Mahout

An adventure in Thailand has to include visits to all the iconic, postcard picture temples. We did that, but it must also include learning a few mahout skills. Mahout? The elephant companion, a centuries old occupation that is very important in a culture where the elephant is considered holy. Thai history praises the pachyderm for being the beast of burden that cleared forests and pulled tons of stone to create places of beauty. But even more significant to their culture: the kings rode elephants into battle and then paraded victoriously on them. 
 

The number of wild elephants in Thailand has dropped considerably (as well as in other countries) due to illegal poaching and deforestation of their natural habitat. Thailand has come to the rescue of their elephants with tourism. There are many programs that give visitors a chance to spend time close up with these giants, something that seems like a childhood dream come true. This is my second trip to Thailand and the Chiangmai area. I couldn’t wait to mahout.

The elephants are protected in sanctuaries with the elderly and weak ones in a special area for them to just “be” for the rest of their days. The younger, healthy ones are cared for by their individual mahouts who bond with one animal for life. They bath, prepare food, and love on that big thing. We heard many stories of the elephant’s great memory, especially sweet tales about the elephant remembering its caretaker after years of separation. 

We met the elephants and headed to the river for a morning bath. We dipped primitive bamboo baskets into the cool waters and flung it up on the massive grey body and scrubbed away with a stiff bristle brush. Our big pets loved this and they flapped their ears, rolled in the water and played liked puppies. Their wiry hair reminded me of a hog’s coat, and actually smelled a bit the same. Neither animal can sweat and they toss water, dirt and mud on their backs to keep cool and insect free. We washed them and they sprayed us with their trunks, it was like kids playing with a water hose.

We prepared breakfast, grinding fruits, seeds, and sticky rice into balls that we placed in their mouths. Those trunks have the agility of fingers and we had to watch or they could snatch it away before we were ready. Their huge pink tongues would react to our touch; it seemed to be a soft spot for them to feel affection. 

Some of the sanctuaries don’t allow riding of the elephants, but many do. We learned how to climb aboard the elephant, and trust me, the trainers and circus performers make it look easy. It’s not. To ride bareback, you sit on the elephant’s neck with your knees bent and use your feet to give directions by nudging the back of their ears. Elephants are very sensitive on the bottom of their big feet, and take careful steps based on their sense of touch.

We had the opportunity to ride on a bench-like seat atop these giants. A thick mat made from the hairy part of the coconut worked as a saddle blanket. Our mahout sat astride the neck and away we trekked into the jungle. I’ll admit, even as I ducked tree limbs, I felt a bit like royalty.

We spent time taking photos and observing. Doy was a three-year-old that is just learning about the tourist trade. He enjoyed the visitors. He shook his happy head. He splashed water, gobbled his treats and basically demanded attention like a three year old. I wanted to bring him home with me. 

The young Thai man that addressed our group told us about studying in college and returning to be part of the mahout life. One could hear the sincerity in his voice when he said he chose to be here because of his love and respect for the beautiful animals. I think I saw his big girl, bat her long lashes and look at him with that big brown eye with the same affection.

On the Other Side of the World

We are doing some traveling in Thailand. The trip has two purposes,1) I’m on a fact finding mission to see if this might be an area that others would be excited to visit and 2) exploring Asia is on my Bucket List. 
 

I love to travel far enough that things are foreign, meaning I need to figure things out. Customs, languages, and food are not just like home. I desire this in my travel. I’m always a little disappointed when fellow travelers expect things to be like home when they are away. They probably should just stay home. Our Thai guide, Uza, encouraged us to “Open your eyes wide, but open your mind wider.” A good travel mantra. 

There are living walls of orchids in the Bangkok airport. These beautiful, delicate flowers welcome us just like the lovely people. Thai people smile easily, and their greeting includes palms pressed together with a respectful bow of the head. We feel special.  I can’t read a symbol of their written language, but there are certain fonts that remind me of musical notes with the quarter and half notes strung together. That makes it fitting that when the locals speak, it sounds a bit like music. The words aren’t anything I can recognize; it reminds me of Alice in Wonderland’s Jabberwocky, with fewer “l’s” and “r’s”. There are five pitch levels for the same letter. The lyrical tones combined with elongated tones makes it all so....sing-songy. 

Food is inexpensive in Thailand. Rice and fish are the staples, but chilies are the stapler.  Red pepper flakes and pods wind up in most dishes, from soup to dessert. Street food is easily found as the aroma of grilling meats, baking coconut buns or boiling of noodles fills the air. Fresh fruit is sold on the side of the road, anywhere watermelons or mangos can be stacked. We see fields of pineapples growing with the small fruits maturing on the end of the central stem, kinda like a radio antenna decoration. Most all meals include heaps of these tasty slices along with papaya and tiny little limes to squeeze. There are over 20 varieties of bananas and seeing big bunches dangling in yards and fields always is a fun “I spy” moment. There are some strange dishes served, OK, bugs and rats, but this requires a little more mind widening than some are willing to dare.

The majority of the people in Thailand are Buddhist (60%). Every yard, business, and parking lot has a little spirit house that receives gifts of food and flowers daily. I won’t even attempt to say I can understand the discipline of their beliefs but it has a huge presence in their world. We joke in Europe about ”ABC” (Another Big Church) and this country has “ABT” (Another Big Temple). The constant reminders of Buddha through images and statues bring to my mind that in our Christian nation, we are taking reminders down. Temples with design and architecture that make one take another dozen pictures as giant carved snakes (called “Naga”) slither down stair banisters. Huge murals, depicting hundreds of tiny characters, cover wall after wall after wall. 

Motorcycles and scooters are the way to go and they do. Traffic is a tangle but even with the zip of the cycles, there doesn’t seem to be the honking and rage I’ve certainly seen in other places. Can there be a gentle traffic jam? And speaking of tangles, have you seen the messy nest of cables attached to power poles? 

Thailand is still mourning the death of their beloved King Bhumibol Adulyadej who passed away last October. Billboards, portraits, and the family crest are everywhere. The perimeters of government buildings plus are decorated with black and white bunting. Most people wear black, white or grey daily for this year of mourning. Tens of thousands of people wait patiently for hours to pass by the coffin in the Grand Palace where he is laid in state. He reigned for 70 years and accomplished much.

I’ll admit we were a bit embarrassed and humbled when we arrived and started seeing all the images. We weren’t really sure who he was but knew someone had died. We asked our bellboy, and he said very sincerely, “You mean, my king?” I couldn’t think of anyone that Americans would pay such respect and grieve for year. Another example of the difference in our cultures.

Same Room, Different View

We all travel with different eyes and that makes group travel even more fun. I would miss so many things that others notice and point out and vice versa. When I travel, I get a kick out of the differences of very common things. I can have as much fun roaming a grocery store in a foreign country as seeing a world class museum. And I have already dedicated an entire chapter of my future book to toilets. But I keep discovering the variety of ways we do the same thing and it cracks me up.

For instance, all the names we have for bathroom business. One trip with me and you'll learn we have a "code" for a potty stop. T.E.O. is short for "Tinkle Every Opportunity". I'm writing this while touring Thailand. Our tour guide calls it the "Happy Room". But she said the local Thai people would be more familiar with women announcing "I'm going to the jungle to pick some flowers." For the men, just say "I need to shoot the rabbit", which is their version of "going to see a man about a horse" and makes as much sense. 

I've already made some memories while picking flowers in the jungle. Our flight to Bangkok went through Tokyo. Husband Doug thought I'd gotten lost but I came out with a story complete with photos. Listen to this- there was an arm rest on one side of the stool. With a push of a button, I could heat my seat, add spray to my stay-bidet style, or another button which kinda looked like the washer for your windshield. I was scared to try it. Another button offered a musical note and even had a volume adjustment. Just when I was sure there was karaoke in my stall, I noticed the tiny print that read "Flushing Sound." This was way more sophisticated than just the two flush move in America.  

There were some additional features that included "Powerful Deodorizer" and "Water Pressure" but I had already overstayed a proper visit. I was exiting the ladies room when I noticed on the handicapped stall was a second sign for " Elder". The wheelchair I recognized, the "elder" was a person leaning on a stick, or holding themselves until they could get to the happy room. The small gathering of women present in the potty agreed it was a good idea and we needed those in the states. 

I remember in China, our guide  used the term "going to sing a song in the happy room". We all giggled when she said it not believing that anyone could be so modest about a normal human function, especially in a country that they all hang their undies on sticks out their windows. She even rated the toilets, a five star had western style stools with tissue. Needless to say, hovering over a hole didn't earn many stars. We learned to never "go sing" without being prepared with "sheet music"!

On our Japan Air flight there was a little sign that I have seen before where there are lots of Asian visitors. The logo is the big red circle with a line drawn through it over the image of a person squatting on the toilet. The multiple languages included English stating, "Do not stand on toilet seat". I can't speak for others but when I finally break down and make that little trip to that tiny closet of a restroom on an airplane, I just hope I can be good to go without adding any gymnastics to the routine. 

I paid five bahts to get happy somewhere north of Bangkok. That's about 14 cents. It wasn't the high rise western stool, but the ceramic hole that makes us American gals understand why they wear skirts over here or at least wish we had stayed with the yoga. There was a bucket and a dipper for DIY flushing. I would have gladly paid more to sing and get happy. Just sayin'.

Picking Magnolias

I just finished reading, “The Magnolia Story” about HGTV  Fixer Upper superstars, Chip and Joanna Gaines. The sweet friend that loaned the book my way knew I’m not a TV watcher and that I really was clueless on what the entire buzz was about. Good to Go with Patti Beth has a group tour to San Antonio and Waco with a visit to the Magnolia Market this May. I get it now. And now I’m a fan. It doesn’t have as much to do with the way they fix up, but more about their story and the big picture.
 

These two crazy kids decided to follow their hearts. They knew what brought them joy. They knew what they loved to do and figured out a way to make a living at it. A good living. Not without highs and lows and laughs and tears, but money to live the way they dreamed. I love that. They loved their home town of Waco, Texas  and had plenty of opportunities to leave, but they stayed to raise their children there. I love that. Lots of money was risked and gained, but at the heart of the projects was the desire to make life better for others. The little low income houses they “flipped” to help college students or singles brought them joy in providing homes. I love that. They became mentors along the way, hiring, teaching, giving back to the neighborhood kids with time and energy. I love that.

So I still don’t have shiplap on my walls or a gate over my couch, but I have an appreciation for the Gaines. Small business owners are the American dream. To be your own boss seems to be the best part, but like Magnolia, our travel business gives us the chance to decide where the money goes. As the owner, president, go-fer and flunky, I get to decide where the dollars are spent. I enjoy finding other small businesses, whether it’s a restaurant, or an off-the-beaten-path attraction to patronize. I love that. I enjoy hearing people’s stories, how life has gotten them where they are.  I like to take people to meet people, whether it is in our Oklahoma backyard or across the globe. The world is a smaller, more homey place when you have friends around each corner. I love that. I look for opportunities to give back when we visit, it may be school supplies, or a small donation, but something that promotes friendship with a dose of Southern Hospitality. The magnolia is traditional symbol in the south representing nobility, perserverence, strength, and pure love. The huge flower bursts from the tiny bud and makes a big impression. I love that.

Here’s to the Chip and Joanna Gaines of the world. To all the small business owners that are following their hearts desires to do more than just to make money. Here’s to those that love their hometowns and want to make a difference in others lives. Let us all remember to look for the “ Magnolias” as we travel, for they have the right idea.