The number of wild elephants in
Thailand has dropped considerably (as well as in other countries) due to
illegal poaching and deforestation of their natural habitat. Thailand has come
to the rescue of their elephants with tourism. There are many programs that
give visitors a chance to spend time close up with these giants, something that
seems like a childhood dream come true. This is my second trip to Thailand and
the Chiangmai area. I couldn’t wait to mahout.
The elephants are protected in
sanctuaries with the elderly and weak ones in a special area for them to just “be”
for the rest of their days. The younger, healthy ones are cared for by their
individual mahouts who bond with one animal for life. They bath, prepare food,
and love on that big thing. We heard many stories of the elephant’s great
memory, especially sweet tales about the elephant remembering its caretaker
after years of separation.
We met the elephants and headed to
the river for a morning bath. We dipped primitive bamboo baskets into the cool
waters and flung it up on the massive grey body and scrubbed away with a stiff
bristle brush. Our big pets loved this and they flapped their ears, rolled in
the water and played liked puppies. Their wiry hair reminded me of a hog’s
coat, and actually smelled a bit the same. Neither animal can sweat and they
toss water, dirt and mud on their backs to keep cool and insect free. We washed
them and they sprayed us with their trunks, it was like kids playing with a
water hose.
We prepared breakfast, grinding
fruits, seeds, and sticky rice into balls that we placed in their mouths. Those
trunks have the agility of fingers and we had to watch or they could snatch it
away before we were ready. Their huge pink tongues would react to our touch; it
seemed to be a soft spot for them to feel affection.
Some of the sanctuaries don’t allow
riding of the elephants, but many do. We learned how to climb aboard the
elephant, and trust me, the trainers and circus performers make it look easy.
It’s not. To ride bareback, you sit on the elephant’s neck with your knees bent
and use your feet to give directions by nudging the back of their ears. Elephants
are very sensitive on the bottom of their big feet, and take careful steps
based on their sense of touch.
We had the opportunity to ride on a
bench-like seat atop these giants. A thick mat made from the hairy part of the
coconut worked as a saddle blanket. Our mahout sat astride the neck and
away we trekked into the jungle. I’ll admit, even as I ducked tree limbs, I
felt a bit like royalty.
We spent time taking photos and
observing. Doy was a three-year-old that is just learning about the tourist trade.
He enjoyed the visitors. He shook his happy head. He splashed water, gobbled
his treats and basically demanded attention like a three year old. I wanted to
bring him home with me.
The young Thai man that addressed
our group told us about studying in college and returning to be part of the
mahout life. One could hear the sincerity in his voice when he said he chose to
be here because of his love and respect for the beautiful animals. I think I
saw his big girl, bat her long lashes and look at him with that big brown eye
with the same affection.
