We are still packing around Peru. It’s
hard to describe the changing landscape as we wind throughout the country, but
I’m going to try. The big bucket list check-off is Machu Picchu, of course. We
all want to see that majestic mountain shrouded in clouds and we will get there. But there is a way to approach this world of
high altitudes and thin air and the key is: slowly.
Getting acclimated is the toughest part and tourists are wise to work their way
up the altimeter and then come down to do the strenuous mountain for the sake
of adjustment. We did just that and spent some fantastic days seeing lesser
known areas in this remote part of South America.
Are there llamas and alpacas running
everywhere? Yes… and no. They do look
wild roaming the rocky fields and occasionally on the roadway, but they are
owned by someone and are attended to. Look a bit closer and you can spot the
shepherdess close by, a gathered felt skirt decorated with colorful embroidery
and a hand-made sweater. The ladies head wear changes from area to area.
Historically one could identify the community a woman was from and her position
in it based on her hat. All seem to be several sizes too small and just perch
on the top of their heads. Doesn’t look too practical or comfortable but it’s
traditional. Peruvian men also have a traditional look wearing brightly knitted
caps with long ear flaps that cover the cheeks and end in yarn tassels. Motifs
from the Incan world such as snakes,
pumas and, of course, llamas decorate their woven wear.
It might surprise you to know Peru is an
entire country engineered with terraces. We will get to those steps at Machu
Picchu but we will see them every day and everywhere. Miles of raised beds for
agriculture marching up slopes and hillsides. Families are still tilling the
earth with primitive tools. We see men walking behind oxen making a furrow that
another family member will come along and drop in a corn seed or potato eye.
One of our tour members volunteers to do a bit of cultivating with the pair of
bovine. We think he might be getting it until the plow comes out of the ground
and the bulls feel the slack and head toward the house. Someone will have to
re-plow that row. Not many tractors here but I spy one in a shed built onto the
front of the house. In fact, the shed is bigger than the house.
The area of Lake Titicaca is the stuff
National Geographic is made of. By sheer volume of water and the surface area
it covers, this “highest navigable lake in the world” is also the largest in
South America. We are 90 miles from Bolivia on a 3305 square mile fresh water
lake at an altitude of 12500 feet. Farmers cultivate the shallows as the water
is low. Native fish are small here but they have begun trout farming using
Canadian trout. We enjoy the prosperity that tourism can bring for a family
hosted lunch. We eat outdoors dining on fresh foods from the garden while
overlooking the lake. This was more than “farm to table” this was “table on the
farm.”
We made our way to the shoreline where
our charter boat would cruise around some of the 92 floating islands. These indigenous people have created their
own waterfront properties by using the reeds that grow in the water. They constantly
replace the stalks as their homes sit
atop these tiny isles. They bundle the porous plants in long logs that become
beautiful boats for transportation. The houses look like illustrations from a
fairy tale book. We see some solar powered lights but cooking is done over an
open fire. I can only wonder how they keep the babies from crawling off the
edge. There are even schools and markets floating along in the system. Life is
definitely different here at the top of the world. But that’s the wonderful
thing about traveling and enjoying the many cultures we humans have created on
this earth. One can experience all the differences while being simultaneously
being reminded of our similarities as well.
There is so much to see, hear, smell,
taste and experience here it can tend to overwhelm your senses. When you decide
to visit, plan on spending more than a day or two. You’ll want the time to
fully absorb those differences and similarities.
